The neighboring towns of Hubbard and Warren in Ohio were home to two related evaporator companies in the late 19th and early 20th century, Henry Hescock’s Eureka Evaporator and Milton Mathews’ I.X.L. Evaporator.
Eureka Evaporator
Envelope for Hescock’s Eureka Evaporator out of Hubbard, Ohio with a cancelation date of 1886.
The Eureka Evaporator, the earlier of the two, was invented and manufactured by Henry W. Hescock, out of Hubbard, Ohio. Following service in the Civil War at the age of sixteen, Hescock entered the dry goods business with his father-in-law, Edward Moore, in Hubbard, Ohio from 1866 to the late 1870s. Following the dry goods business, he started an evaporator manufacturing business, although it is not clear exactly when Hescock began to design and manufacture evaporators. One source says he opened his evaporator shop “shortly after the war” and another mentions upon his death in 1896 that he had been making evaporators for over twenty years. The earliest reference to him patenting one of his evaporator designs dates to 1877.
Example of a recovered Eureka Evaporator cast iron arch front (Photo courtesy of Jerry Russin, Jr.).
References describing the actual use of this evaporator as well as advertisements for the sale of the Eureka Evaporator appear as early as 1883. It is important to note that the Hescock Evaporator should not be confused with an entirely different fruit evaporator, also called the Eureka, that was manufactured in the late 1870s and early 1880s by Mr. D.R. Byrum and the Grand Isle Evaporator Company, out of Grand Isle, Vermont.
Drawing from Hescock’s 1877 evaporator patent design.
The first Hescock evaporator patent from 1877 (patent no. US195366) featured a series of individual flat pans joined by connecting siphons. Hescock’s second patented design, awarded in 1886 (patent no. US335583), featured the same siphons with the addition of corrugations to the bottom of the pans to increase the surface area exposed to the heat of the firebox. In 1893 he patented a third evaporator design (patent no. US50233) which featured a unique set of horizontal tubular flues through which the hot gases would flow as they exited the fire box and out through the stack or chimney. Hescock obtained this patent in 1893 but there is no indication that he put this design into production.
Image from Hescock’s 1893 evaporator patent design.
In addition to manufacturing evaporators, Hescock sold sheet metal sap pails, a barrel style sap tank, and a sap level regulator. Besides manufacturing maple sugaring equipment, Hescock co-owned the Loveless & Hescock foundry with his brother-in-law Warren Loveless. Hescock and his wife also owned numerous parcels of land in Hubbard with Hescock listed as the builder for at least fourteen houses in the town of Hubbard.
Based on a number of advertisements, envelopes and letterhead, and other references from that era, the Eureka Evaporator was actually fabricated at Milton Mathews’ Warren Evaporator Works in nearby Warren, Ohio as early as 1884.
Letterhead from 1884 showing Warren Evaporator Company as the Manufacturer of Hescock’s Eureka Evaporator (Image from Trumbull County Historical Society website).
It is possible that the Warren Evaporator Works simply had a license to manufacture and sell the Eureka Evaporator alongside their I.X.L. Evaporator and Hescock himself was simultaneously engaged in fabricating his Eureka Evaporator in Hubbard. However, because Hubbard, Ohio and Warren, Ohio are only fifteen miles apart, it seems unlikely that both Hescock and Mathews were both building the Eureka Evaporator and more probably that Hescock was simply handling sales and marketing of his invention.
Seemingly at the height of his company, Hescock died November 10, 1896, at the age of 52.
I.X.L. Evaporator
Milton Mathews was the owner and operator of the Warren Evaporator Works, Warren Ohio, which, as noted above, was in operation as early 1884 where it was manufacturing the Eureka Evaporator. It is notable that letterhead from that time only includes text for “Warren Evaporator Works, Manufacturers of Hescock’s Eureka Evaporator and Sugar Camp Fixtures” and does not mention the I.X.L. Evaporator.
Cover of a 1911 sales catalog for the I.X.L. Evaporator. Click on image for full PDF of the catalog.
In December 1887 Milton Mathews, along with Henry Hill of Chester Crossroads, Ohio (later from Chardon, Ohio) applied for a patent for their design of an evaporator with a unique hinge or pivot along one side of the boiling pans. The patent was awarded in 1888 (patent no US382314) and was marketed as the I.X.L. Evaporator. It featured flat pans that hinged on a piece of pipe or tubing that served as an external connector between each pair of pans, like the u-shaped siphons used to connect other evaporator designs. The hinge was built on either the left or the right side of the pans and appeared like a bulge to the wall of the pans. Each pan also featured a drain hole on the high side that was plugged with a metal stopper with a long metal handle.
Drawing from Mathews and Hill’s 1888 evaporator patent design.
Milton Mathews was born in 1842 in Trumbull Co. Ohio and like Hescock, served in the Civil War in Ohio’s 19th Infantry from September 1861 to October 1862, before being discharged with a disability. Mathews’ partner on the patent, Henry Ezra Hill, is someone we know much less about. Born in 1849 in Geauga County, Ohio, Hill was said to have invented an evaporator in the Chardon area in the mid-1880s, but it is unclear if this was with Mathews or independently. Census data tells us Hill was a merchant and salesman in the 1890s and early 1900s, but it is not clear who he worked for or with, perhaps the Warren Evaporator Works. Hill appears to have retired by 1919 before passing away in Warren, Ohio in 1925.
Image of the early version of the I.X.L. Evaporator with a flat back pan and no preheater.
I.X.L. was a fairly common product name at the time, sort of like Acme and was not a specific acronym for anything. Rather it was a play on the words “I Excel” proclaiming the high quality and performance capabilities of the product. Early drawings and advertisements emphasized the ease with which the pans could be raised on their hinged connections and that it did not require an engineer to operate.
Image of the later I.X.L. Evaporator (1897 and later) featuring the preheater back pan with vertical tubular flues.
Interestingly, before 1897 the advertising images of the evaporators show a flat bottom to the back pan. Images after that date all show the vertical tubular flues on the raised back pan. I.X.L. Evaporator sales literature gave buyers a choice between a flat back pan or their unique “preheater” which featured an array of round tubular flues on the back pan that extended vertically into the arch.
Man standing alongside a left-sided I.X.L. Evaporator. Note the flared side to the pans and the pipelike hinge. (Photo from the collections of the Geauga County Historical Society).
Considering Hescock died in 1896 and it was at about that time that the I.X.L. Evaporator began to be made with the tubular vertical flues, it is very possible that Milton Mathews’ idea for the vertical tubular flues was sparked by seeing the horizontal tubular flues on the 1893 Hescock patent, a design of which he was most certainly aware.
Demonstrating the ease of use and lifting the hinged pans of an I.X.L. Evaporator. Note the circular vents on the doors on the front of the arch (source unknown).
Although it never appeared in the images of the I.X.L. advertisements and sales brochures, all the known examples and photographs of I.X.L. Evaporators show a round, sunburst pattern vent on each of the cast iron doors. I.X.L. Evaporators are also notable for the one-piece casting of the iron door frames on their arch front and their very squared, vertical wall design on their arches.
A series of images of a recently salvaged and soon to be restored I.X.L. Evaporator from Pennsylvania (Images courtesy of Laurence Frazier).
Mathews’ Warren Evaporator Works was located on the east side of Warren, Ohio on Woodland Avenue between a branch of the Mahoning River and the Ashtabula, Youngstown, and Pittsburgh Railroad. The Warren Evaporator Works continued to manufacture and sell I.X.L. Evaporators into the 19-teens. Around 1918 it appears that the plant was closed, and Milton Mathews retired from evaporator fabrication. Mathews died in Trumbull County a few years later in 1925.
1889 Sanborn Fire Insurance map for Warren, Ohio showing location of Warren Evaporator Works at the corner of Woodland Avenue and Railroad Street.
Packaging maple syrup in plastic jugs is now commonplace and jugs are the primary container for retail sales. However, sixty years ago there were no plastic jugs and syrup was either packaged in metal or glass containers. When first introduced to the maple industry, plastic was modern and novel, but it was also an untried and unproven material. In time, the industry found what types of plastic worked best and settled on the familiar shape of a jug with a handle for its plastic containers. In getting to that point there were a few earlier, less well-known attempts at bottling syrup in plastic containers. Prior to the introduction of the jug shape there were a few other examples of plastic maple syrup containers.
The unique and instantly recognizable shape of the modern plastic maple syrup container got its start in the early 1970s when a pair of New England inventors and their companies introduced a new container made from a stiff, unbreakable plastic that could handle the requirements of hot-packed syrup and hold up to the rigors of shipping and transport.
Following the introduction of plastic jugs and increasing popularity of using plastic containers for packaging maple syrup in the 1970s, a group of new manufacturers entered the picture to meet the growing demand. It was during the decade of the 1980s that the plastic syrup jugs most commonly used by syrup makers today got their start, as well as some other manufacturers that operated on a smaller scale or for a limited duration.
1960s
Harry Chapman
Plastic squeeze bottle for maple syrup introduced by Harry Chapman in 1962. From the Collections of Matthew M. Thomas.
The earliest example of bottling with plastic containers was the efforts of sugarmaker Harry Chapman of South Wallingford, Vermont. In 1959 while still an engineering student at the University of Vermont, Harry began experimenting with different available plastic containers and settled on a polypropylene tubular squeeze bottle used for condiments and by the honey industry. In an interview with Harry, he shared that starting in 1962 he purchased bottles from an Albany, NY wholesaler in half pint, full pint, and quart sizes, and added a two-color, yellow and dark green, label on the clear containers using a silk screen set-up he built himself. Beside bottling syrup from the Chapman family sugarbush in the squeeze bottles, for a couple of years, Harry drove around Vermont selling the bottles to other syrup makers with roadside syrup stands and made numerous presentations promoting the use of this new technology and container.
Vermont Maple Orchards – Frank Rees
Carol Brown, Vermont Maple Queen in 1962 is show examining the Vermont Maple Orchards plastic syrup container in the shape of a sugarhouse. Image appeared in the Brattleboro Reformer – September 29, 1962.
Beginning in the spring of 1962, Vermont Maple Orchards of Essex Junction, Vermont began selling syrup packaged in a miniature plastic sugarhouse. This container was about a half pint in size and made from clear plastic with a pour spout fashioned to look like the smoke stack of the sugarhouse. The company promoted the benefits of plastic as being unbreakable and free from the threat of rusting. Frank Rees, General Manager of Vermont Maple Orchards at that time, was a chemist by training and was a part of the research in the 1930s to identify the sources of lead in maple syrup. As a result, he was sensitive to potential risks of solder leaching from metal cans into syrup and quickly embraced the potential of plastic as a packaging material. Tom Rees, the son of Frank Rees, recalls that the plastic sugarhouse was not a successful item and only sold for a couple of years, in part because the plastic used at that time, probably polypropylene, was not suited to the hot packing of maple syrup and soon after became brittle and hard. In fact, in a August 1962 letter from Malvine Cole, a spokesperson for Vermont Maple Orchards, to Frank Rees, she noted that when left in the hot sun in her car for a few hours, the plastic appeared to have softened and leaked syrup. Little is known about these plastic sugarhouses, such as where and how they were manufactured or who designed them. Their novelty at the time and short lifespan has made them a rarity and essentially unknown among collectors of vintage maple syrup containers.
Robert Bramhall and Robert M. Lamb
Pint sized plastic container for maple syrup introduced by Robert Bramhall in 1965. From the Collections of Tom McCrumm.
A third early plastic container was introduced in 1965 by Robert “Bob” Bramhall, Sr., the woodlands manager for the J.P. Lewis Company (JPL) working out of Beaver Falls, NY. Bramhall, who supervised JPL’s maple sugaring operation began experimenting in 1963 with the idea of bottling in plastic before settling on a square shaped container with a maple leaf design embossed on the side. Bramhall worked with the American Plastics Corporation in nearby Bainbridge, NY to manufacture the opaque cream and peach-colored containers. In the first year he had 50,000 pint-sized containers made with a quart size added the following year. According to Butch Bramhall, Bob Bramhall’s son, one of the reasons Bob looked at plastic was the shortage in the availability of metal syrup cans in the early 1960s.
The Bramhall plastic container came in pint and quart sizes. Photo by author from the collections of the International Maple Museum Centre.
Bob’s daughter-in-law Pat Bramhall added that Bob wanted to have a container that was smaller and easier for housewives to handle and use than the large half and full gallon tins that were most common at that time. After offering the containers for sale for about one year, in 1966 Bramhall transferred the sales of the containers to Robert M. Lamb’s growing plastic tubing and sugaring supplies company in Baldwinsville, NY. Lamb continued to advertise the container for sale through the end of 1969 when they were replaced by the new plastic syrup jugs coming out on the market.
1970s
Kress Creations – Elmer Kress
Examples of Kress Creations plastic jugs in one pint and a half gallon sizes. Photo by author from the collections of the International Maple Museum Centre.
Elmer Kress got his start as a potter when he opened Kress Ceramics in Seymour, Connecticut in the 1950s. According to his daughter Sarah Jean Davies, Elmer developed health problems related to exposure to ceramic dust and needed to make a change in his business. He sold the pottery business in 1967 and decided to give the manufacturing of plastic maple syrup containers a try under the name Kress Creations.
Kress had previously dabbled with producing small, novelty size stoneware jugs for maple syrup sales, so he had a familiarity and design idea in mind that resembled an antique loop handled stoneware jug.
Elmer and Mary Kress – Source: Maple Syrup Digest, March 1982.
Kress invested in his own blow molding equipment and made his containers from a new plastic called XT Polymer developed by the American Cyanamid Corporation out of Wallingford, Connecticut.
Early 1970s advertisement from ALCOA featuring the Kress syrup container and its use of the ALCOA pilfer-proof screw on metal cap. From the collections of the author.
XT Polymer was chosen by Kress because it could handle the hot packing of syrup. Kress jugs also featured a metal tamper-proof cap made by the ALCOA Company. Kress’ daughter tells that her father did not want his jug to look like cheap plastic, so he specifically used a heavier, glossier plastic that looked more like ceramic. XT polymer was more expensive, but Elmer felt it looked nicer. As an artist, Elmer Kress drew his own designs for the exterior sugarbush scene and did the one-color screen printing on site at the Kress Creations factory.
Elmer Kress working the screen printing machine – Source: Maple Syrup Journal, March 1982.
Kress jugs were originally released in early 1970 in pint and quart sizes, with half gallon and a unique three-quart sizes added later. The company outgrew the plant in Seymour and moved to a new facility in Oxford, Connecticut in 1975. The Kress operation was a true mom and pop business with the Kress family often taking weekend road trips around New England to peddle their containers out of the back of their car. Kress sold the plastic jug company in 1990 to a Southbury, New Hampshire firm, who in turn sold the molds to Pioneer Plastics in Greenville, New Hampshire who continued to manufacture and sell the Kress jug until around 2005. Elmer Kress passed away in 2005.
Bacon’s Sugar House – Charlie Bacon
Example od the iconic Bacon’s Sugar House plastic jug in one quart size. Photo by author from the collections of the International Maple Museum Centre.
As a syrup maker from Jaffney Center, New Hampshire, Charles “Charlie” Bacon was dissatisfied with metal syrup cans bursting when he shipped syrup across the country. Deciding plastics would be a better option, around 1967 he began researching food grade plastics that could handle hot packing of syrup. According to Bacon’s son, Jim Bacon, Charlie settled on high density polyethylene as the best option and, working from a simple sketch, had a wood form made in the shape of an old-fashioned crockery jug which was then made into a durable metal form for blow-molding by Hillside Plastics in Sunderland, Massachusetts. Early examples of Bacon jugs featured a metal cap with an interior heat activated seal.
Charlie Bacon – Source: Maple Syrup Journal, June 1982.
The first Bacon jug was available for sale in early 1971 in a one-quart size followed by a half gallon and a pint a few months later, and lastly, a one-gallon jug in 1973. Jugs were screen printed and distributed from the Bacon farm. Eventually, they were available in five sizes with either a standard one-color screen-printed design or option to do custom designs. Adoption of Bacon jugs spread quickly with the assistance of a network of dealers located around the maple region to more directly connect with nearby syrup producers. By 1980, Bacon was manufacturing a million jugs a year. Jim Bacon shared that his father never obtained a design patent on his jugs. Although he considered it, Bacon realized that it was not worth the expense of filing the patent paperwork since another maker could come along with a slightly different design that was virtually identical, and there was nothing Bacon could do about it.
Assemblage of different sizes of Bacon jugs from mid-1980s, including the short-lived salad dressing shaped bottle.
Bacon became concerned with the quality of manufacturing at Hillside Plastics in the early 1980s. In response, in 1983 he took his molds to the Hussey Molding Corporation of Manchester, New Hampshire for production. Bacon sold the jug manufacturing, printing, and sales to Hussey around 1986. A few years later, a sales agent for Hussey that knew Hussey was interested in getting out of the screen printing and sales portion of the syrup jug business, recognized that both Dave McClure’s Honey and Maple Products and Roger Ames‘ American Maple Products of Newport, Vermont were each buying a lot of jugs. The agent put McClure and Ames in touch and in 1988 McClure and Ames partnered to purchase the painting and sales portion of the Bacon Jug Company, opening a shop in part of the old Cary Maple Sugar Company warehouse in St. Johnsbury, Vermont. Hussey continued to serve as their jug manufacturer. A few years later McClure bought out Ames and moved the printing and distribution to a new facility in Littleton, New Hampshire. McClure himself sold the Bacon Jug Company in 1997 to Dutch Gold Honey, Incorporated and its subsidiary, Gamber Container, out of Lancaster, Pennsylvania, who continue to own and operate the Bacon Jug Company from the Littleton location. Under the ownership of Dutch Gold and Gamber, manufacturing of the Bacon jug was moved from Hussey to Hillside Plastics of Turners Falls, Massachusetts. Charlie Bacon passed away in 2006.
R.M. Lamb – Bob Lamb
Examples of R.M. Lamb plastic jugs in half liter (16.9 ounces) and 1 liter (33.8 ounces) sizes. Photo by author from the collections of the International Maple Museum Centre.
Robert “Bob” Lamb, inventor and manufacturer of Lamb Naturalflow plastic tubing, also offered a blow molded plastic jug for maple syrup in the 1970s and 1980s. Described as a “pot bellied plastic jug” by Lamb, this container was shaped and colored to look like a stoneware loop handle jug with very rounded shoulders and a tapered base. These were made from XT Polymer plastic, similar to the Kress jugs, and silkscreened with a one color, old-time sugarbush scene created by an unnamed “famous French artist” according to information in a 1973 letter from Bob Lamb to Fred Laing at the University of Vermont. When first released, the Lamb jug featured a metal ALCOA tamper-proof cap, like the Kress jugs, and later replaced by a plastic cap. Not a lot is known about the Lamb jugs. They were released in 1973 in two metric sizes of 125 and 500 milliliters and were targeted for sale to Canadian maple syrup producers. Lamb felt that we were all going to be going metric in North America and it was wise to make his containers in metric sizes from the start. In 1975 Lamb expanded his line to include 1-liter and 2-liter jugs.
Lamb jugs were made of XT Polymer plastic, the same material used by Elmer Kress, because Lamb thought it made for a better looking container; however, the Lamb jugs were slightly more expensive than the Kress containers. The Lamb jug appears in advertisements in the Digest from 1973 through 1977 and in Canadian equipment sales catalogs in the early 1980s before being discontinued by 1985.
Fairfield Plastics – S. Allen Soule
Allen Soule, the Vermont inventor of the first lithographed metal can for maple syrup producers in the late 1940s, got into the plastic jug making business in 1975 when he purchased a blow molding machine for the manufacturing of small sized polypropylene plastic containers. Soule’s containers were designed for sales in gift shops and the tourist trade. Most of Soule’s jugs were made for use in bottling syrup from his Fairfield Farms brand pure maple and blended syrups. In addition to making containers for his own maple products, Soule sold containers to syrup makers under the name Fairfield Plastics. Soule’s containers resembled small ceramic jugs with short necks and loop handles and in some cases were made from a bright yellow plastic. According to John Soule, son of S. Allen Soule, Fairfield Plastics ended production in 1987 when the molding machine and molds were destroyed in a fire at their Fairfield, Vermont bottling plant. Unfortunately, I have not been able to locate examples of the S. Allen Soule jug to illustrate here.
1980s
P.H. S. Syrup Jugs – Peter Stransky
Examples of Stransky jugs in 375, 250, and 100 ml sizes. Image Source: Photo by author. Photo by author from the collections of the International Maple Museum Centre.
Peter Stransky entered the maple business in the 1960s, selling maple syrup equipment out of Collingwood, Ontario, later adding syrup buying, packing, and sales to the company activities. Between 1967 and 1979, Stransky saw early success as the primary distributor of the Ontario Maple Syrup Producers Association orange, white, and green metal cans. Stransky realized that if he made his own plastic containers, he could cut out the middleman for container purchases and have better control over quality and availability. In 1978, Stransky had molds designed for five smaller sizes of jugs, ranging from 3.4 ounces to a quart. His jugs were made by Olympus Plastics, a blow-molding company in Richmond Hill, Ontario. The containers were a round jug shape with a loop handle, a pronounced shoulder break, a reinforced ridge near the lip, and were painted with one color screen printing of a traditional maple sugaring scene. Stransky’s primary intent was making containers for his own packaging, but he also offered the containers for sale, primarily to Ontario and U.S. syrup producers. Manufacture and sale of the Stransky jugs continued until 1998 when Peter Stransky retired and closed his equipment and syrup sales business without selling or transferring the molds for his containers. Peter Stransky passed away in 2020.
Sugarhill Maple Containers – Dick Haas
Examples of Sugarhill containers in five sizes. Image Source: Brookfield Maple Products website.
Hillside Plastics got its start in 1967 as a small family-owned plastics company operating out of a horse barn in Sunderland, Massachusetts, blow molding containers for apple cider and fluid milk. As a young man in his twenties, Richard Haas began working as an employee at Hillside Plastics in 1969. In the early years, the company struggled and was not always able to cover Dick’s salary. Instead, Dick was occasionally paid in company shares, which ultimately led Dick and Janet Haas to purchase the company in the mid-1970s.
Hillside Plastics first made plastic jugs for maple syrup in 1970 when Charlie Bacon contracted with Hillside to do the blow molding of his new Bacon Jug (see Part II of this article in December 2021 issue of the Digest). When the Bacon Jug company decided to take their business elsewhere in 1980, Hillside Plastics, having learned a great deal about the plastic syrup jug business, formed Sugarhill Containers to manufacture and sell a high-density polyethylene (HDPE) maple syrup jug of its own design. According to Peter Haas, Dick’s son, demand for plastic jugs really increased in the 1980s when the large wholesale club stores on the west coast began to shift to shipping and selling syrup packed in plastic.
Haas family in early 1990s with Sugarhill containers, left to right Kate, Peter, Janet, Dick, and Greg Haas. Image Source: Peter Haas.
The company grew to a workforce of over fifty employees producing 60,000 jugs a day, necessitating a move in 1993 to a larger and new 47,000 square foot building up the road in Turners Falls. In addition to maple syrup jugs and even a plastic cabin-shaped container in 1995, Hillside Plastics expanded their catalog to manufacture blow-molded containers for a variety of other industrial, automotive, and food products; however, maple syrup jugs were always the centerpiece of their business.
Sugarhill Containers grew so popular over time that Dick Haas noted in 1997 that they were making more containers in one day than they made in an entire year in the early 1970s. The Sugarhill Containers are noted for being the leaders in developing and patenting the Extended Life (XL) exterior coating as a measure to reduce the air and moisture permeability of the plastic and better preserve the color grade of the syrup inside. Hillside has come up with other materials and design innovations, like developing a material for labels that would not wrinkle and could expand and shrink with the hot filling and cooling of plastic syrup jugs. In addition to producing Sugarhill Containers, Hillside Plastics does contract molding for other brands of maple syrup jugs, such as the Bacon Jug in the 1970s and again in the 2000s. Following the death of Dick Haas in 2010, the company continued to operate under the leadership of his wife Janet, and three children Peter Haas, Greg Haas, and Kate (Haas) Colby. The Haas family sold the business in 2015 to its current owner, Plastic Industries, Inc. and its parent company Carr Management, Inc.
T.A.P. Farm, Inc. – Chris Audley
Chris Audley seated with Bacon Jugs printed in French for Canadian market. Image Source: Maple Syrup Journal, issue 1, 1981.
Chris Audley, a Quebec syrup maker, became the Bacon Jug distributor for Canada in 1979. In 1980, at roughly the same time the Bacon Jug company made a shift in manufacturers away from Hillside Plastics to Hussey Plastics, Charlie Bacon and Chris Audley realized that importing American made jugs into Canada was too expensive. Instead, Charlie Bacon had a set of molds sent to Audley to begin manufacturing Bacon jugs in Quebec. Audley found a blow-molder near Montreal, Quebec and ensured jugs were printed in French and English as required for sale in Canada. Audley formalized his container business in 1982 when he formed company called T.A.P. Farm, Inc. with the T.A.P. name an acronym for Ton Acériculteur Provincal, meaning “your provincial sugarmaker.”
Audley’s T.A.P. Farm, Inc. unfortunately went bankrupt in 1983 when it unsuccessfully tried to launch 250 ml and 500ml foil-lined, cardboard containers for packaging maple syrup. Later that year, Audley sold the plastic jug portion of the business to Gerard Filion, a hardware store owner in St. Andrews East, Quebec who carried maple syrup making supplies and sold a good amount of Audley’s Canadian Bacon Jug.
Les Cruchons J.U.G.S. – Gerard Filion
Earliest Les Cruchons JUGS with looping handle and stepped shoulder. Image source 1983 Dominion & Grimm catalog.
In the late 1970s, Gerard Filion and his wife Lise were running St. Andrews Hardware store in St. Andrews Est, Quebec. Their store specialized in the sale of maple sugaring supplies, including the Bacon Jug supplied to Filion by Chris Audley, the Canadian distributor for Bacon Jugs. In 1983, Filion purchased Audley’s T.A.P. Farm, Inc. syrup container company and entered the plastic jug manufacturing business, calling his new company Les Cruchons J.U.G.S. Since he did not assume Audley’s Bacon Jug distributorship, one of the first things Filion did was develop his own jug design and molds.
Catalog image of Les Cruchons JUGS showing two jug designs. In the front row is the earliest variation with the stepped shoulder. In the back row is the later variation with an angled shoulder and squared handle. Image Source: 1994 Dominion & Grimm catalog.
His first jugs featured a step on the shoulder of the jug and a looping handle and were made under contract by a Montreal blow molding firm. In 1992, Filion purchased his own silk-screening machine and was doing the printing on the jugs in the back of the hardware store. Around 1994, Filion introduced a new jug design featuring a more angled shoulder and a squared loop handle. By 1996, this design replaced the stepped shoulder jugs and became the Les Cruchons jug shape that is still in use today.
Examples of the current Les Cruchons – Ampak jugs available and in wide use by syrup makers today.
The popularity of Les Cruchons syrup jugs grew fast and in 2000, Filion made the move to go into the jug manufacturing business full time and compete with the American manufacturers for a piece of the syrup jug market. That year he purchased a large warehouse production facility just across the border in nearby Hawkesbury, Ontario where corporate taxes were lower than in Quebec. He also began to do his own blow-molding of HDPE syrup jugs, as well as a variety of other food, pharmaceutical, and detergent containers. By 2005, sales had grown to include around five million syrup jugs a year produced in eleven shapes and sizes. Wishing to see the company grow, Filion made the decision in 2005 to sell Les Cruchons J.U.G.S. to Salvatore Nicastro and the AMPAK Corporation, investors from Montreal with experience in the plastics business and the necessary capital to fund the expansion. Gerard Filion and members of his family stayed on to assist the company for another 5 to 6 years. In 2014, Les Cruchons J.U.G.S., Inc. formally changed its name to Ampak Plast Inc., and continues to manufacture and distribute the Les Cruchons plastic syrup containers from their Hawkesbury facility.
As illustrated in this article, the story of the development and introduction of the jug-shaped plastic container for packaging maple syrup spanned three decades, from the 1960s to the 1980s. Although the industry continues to evolve and grow, the largest manufacturers in the modern syrup jug market can trace their origins to the 1980s and the earlier efforts, events, and individuals that paved the way for them.
This article first appeared in 2021 in three parts (Part I, Part II, Part III) in three separate issues of the Maple Syrup Digest. It has been condensed into one updated article here with the addition of a few more images, some images in color that were in black and white in the Maple Digest version, and few new details and lines of text.
Two examples of the iconic Québec maple syrup can. Photography by Amy Cavanaugh.
In Québec, it is common for maple syrup to be packaged and sold in a unique round, flat-topped metal can, similar in size and shape to a large can of soup or crushed tomatoes. In other parts of the maple syrup producing region in Canada and the United States, maple syrup is more commonly packed in plastic jugs with handles, fancy glass bottles, or rectangular metal cans of various sizes. Today, Québec cans are filled with 540 milliliters of syrup, about the same as 19 fluid ounces, a little more than the 16 oz. American pint. When these cans were first introduced in 1952, they were marked with their container or net weight of 26 oz. and when Canada converted to metric in 1980 the cans began to be labeled in liquid volume of 540 ml.
A contemporary example of the iconic Dominion & Grimm design on the Québec can. The bands of ridges around the can are known as beading and add strength and stability to the walls of a round can. Source – Amazon.com listing.
Although, plastic, glass, and rectangular cans also see limited use in Québec today, maple syrup makers and consumers in Québec have hung on tightly to the Québec round can since its introduction, almost as a sort of identity marker and a reminder of their role as world leaders in the modern maple syrup industry. In fact, one could say this can, in particular the version with the design artwork of the Dominion & Grimm Company, has become iconic in Québec. So much so, that one can find the image of the can in pop artwork, on greeting cards, coffee mugs, refrigerator magnets, body tattoos, and even as a central theme of popular Montreal street artist Whatisadam!
Yet, there is a bit of mystery surrounding the details of the origins and introduction of this can. As recounted over the last few years in a few Québec publications, the Québec can was introduced as an option for syrup makers in 1952 following a 1951 contest asking participants to design a new and attractive label for this special sized can. That such a contest was held was known to be true, but beyond that, the details of the contest were thought to be lost.[1] It was a mystery who won, what the winning design looked like, and if that design was ever put to use . . . until now. My research with the digital collections in the National Archives of Québec has brought forward a number of important documentary sources and previously unreported details related to this contest. But first, some background on the introduction of the 26 oz. Québec can.
In the 1950s, Jules Méthot, chief of the honey and maple products division at the Québec Ministry of Agriculture, wanted to take advantage of the growing shift to buying goods from grocery markets. Méthot felt that the maple syrup industry in Québec would have greater success if they packaged syrup in smaller containers than the traditional one-gallon can. Méthot argued that the gallon sized can was cost prohibitive to the average household, and packaging syrup in smaller cans that could be consumed in a shorter period of time and would better preserve the unique flavors of pure maple syrup.[2]
June 1951 announcement and invitation to submit entries to the label design contest. Source – L’Action Catholique, 14 June 1952, p 10.
Under Méthot’s leadership, a concerted effort began to promote the use of smaller cans for syrup. In 1951, the Ministry of Agriculture partnered with Les Producteurs de sucre d’erable du Québec, the influential maple syrup cooperative out of Plessisville, Québec, to sponsor a label design contest held at that summer’s annual Provincial Exposition in Québec City. It was no surprise that Méthot was working hand in hand with the cooperative. As a syrup maker himself, Méthot was involved in the formation of the cooperative from the very beginning and managed the cooperative’s Plessisville plant from 1928 to 1940.
In June 1951, announcements for the contest appeared in various newspapers calling for submissions of the most interesting designs for labels that could be attached to No. 2 and 2 ½ size metal food cans. These sized cans were round in shape and generally held about 26 oz. Moreover, the Continental Can Company and the syrup producers cooperative each contributed $50 for the cash for prizes to be awarded to the three winning entrants.[3]
September 1951 article describing the awards event and the names of the winners of the label design contest. Source – L’Action Catholique Quebec, 6 Sept 1951, p2.
My research has uncovered that over forty designs were entered in the contest, and on September 5th, 1951, the winners were announced at a reception at the Agricultural Pavilion at the Québec Expo before an audience of guests and government officials including Méthot; the Honorable Senator and Director of the syrup cooperative, Cyrille Vaillancourt; J.H. Lavoie, Director of the Horticulture Services at the Ministry of Agriculture; and Dr. Georges Maheux, Director of Information and Research Services at the Ministry of Agriculture.[4] According to news accounts of the reception, first prize was awarded to Mrs. Henri Brunelle of Batiscan, Second prize to Mr. Lionel Bégin, of Lévis, and third prize to Mr. H. Jacques, of Limoilou. Additional genealogical research suggests that Mrs. Henri Brunelle’s full name was probably Emilliana St-Cyr Brunelle.[5]
Furthermore, I was also able to locate a pair of photographs in the National Archives of Québec, taken at the 1951 Québec Exposition by noted Québec photographer Omer Beaudoin that illustrate a display of the entries of in the syrup can label contest.
First of two photos showing the left side of the case displaying the entries and winners of the label design contest at the Provincial Exposition. Photo by Omer Beaudoin – BANQ – – E6,S7,SSI,P88159Second of two photos showing the right side of the case displaying the entries and winners of the label design contest at the Provincial Exposition. Photo by Omer Beaudoin – BANQ – E6,S7,SSI,P88160
If one zooms in closely, it is possible to see that three of the entries have unique tags attached to each of them, which probably mark the three winning entries. Unfortunately, the photos available online are not clear or close enough read the names on the tags or distinguish the labels.[6]
Syrup producers’ cooperative announcement for new 26 oz. round cans that appeared as early as February 1952. Source – Le Bulletin des Agriculteurs, 1 February 1952, p 80.
Following the results of the label design competition the previous summer, in February 1952 the producers’ cooperative began announcing to maple syrup producers that a new No. 2 sized sanitary can that will hold 26 oz. of syrup was now available for purchase to package and sell their syrup. Each can was produced with a color glossy lithographed label featuring Mrs. Emiliana St-Cyr Brunelle’s winning design. When using the new cans, syrup producers only needed to indicate the grade of the syrup and their name and address, which could be completed with a special stamp and ink the cooperative was happy to provide.[7]
A newspaper article from March 1952 indicated that the new 26 oz. tins were lithographed with three colors, red, white, and green. As it turns out, a number of maple antique collectors have preserved examples of these original 26-ounce yellow, red, and green lithographed cans.[8]
Well-preserved example of the 26 oz. can introduced by the cooperative in 1952. Photos courtesy of Réjean Bilodeau.
UPDATE: Since publishing this story, my friend and Québec maple historian, Réjean Bilodeau was kind enough to share with me photographs of an example of the 1952 can from his collection of maple syrup antiques. As can be seen in the photos, the can shows the same design as in the cooperative’s newspaper announcements with the above mentioned red and green colors, along with either a white that has discolored with age, or a creamy yellow. Also, as became standard on Canadian syrup cans, one side appears in French and the other in English.
Updated section added 1 December 2021
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Early image of actual 26 oz, No. 2 size cans in use with a maple leaf motif on the label design. Source – 1952 Ministry of Agriculture Bulletin No. 169. Original photo caption – “Display of maple products along our highways”.
Another early photographic of what appears to be a 26 oz. tin can be found in a 1952 Ministry of Agriculture Bulletin (No. 169) co-authored by Jules R. Méthot and Napoleon Rompré titled, L’érable à sucre du Québec. The bulletin includes a photo of two individuals examining a display of 26 oz. syrup cans with a caption that translates to “display of our maple products along our tourist routes.” The cans in this image do appear to show a maple leaf design, but one that looks different than the maple leaf design in the cooperative’s announcements for the availability of the new cans and does not look like it features a yellow background. At present. this is a new mystery can and maybe there are examples of this can sitting on a collector’s shelf . Perhaps another design entry from the 1951 competition?[9]
Photograph of a 1957 display of Citadelle brand syrup in bottles and cans, including the 26 oz. Québec can. Source – Citadelle website.
The cooperative had been packaging its syrup for many years under the brands of Citadelle and Camp. Through the 1930s and 1940s, their syrup and maple butter was packaged in both bottles and cans of various shapes and sizes. For the most part, cooperative members delivered the majority of their syrup in bulk barrels to the cooperative to be blended, marketed, and sold under the Camp and Citadelle labels. Advertisements show that by July 1952, grocery stores in Canada began to sell Citadelle brand syrup in 26 oz. tins. According to a history presentation on the cooperative’s website, the producers’ cooperative changed its Citadelle label in 1957 to a distinctive design of a red, white, and blue shield over yellow and white vertical stripes.[10]
Example of the producers’ cooperative Citadelle brand syrup in the 26 oz. Québec can featuring a red, white, and blue shield logo over vertical yellow and white stripes. Source – Worthpoint online auction site.
However, a film dating to 1955 and produced by the cooperative and available in the BANQ archives clearly shows the yellow and white stripe motif with the red, white, and blue shield in use on rectangular metal cans and more importantly on round 26 ounce cans.
Frame shots from the Cooperative’s 1955 film titled “Sucre d’érable et coopération”. source – https://numerique.banq.qc.ca/patrimoine/details/52327/2280556
Cooperative members were also free to engage in local and direct sales of their syrup, packed in containers of a gallon or less in size. Although the announcements for the new 26 oz. cans were placed in newspapers by the producers cooperative, these cans were not meant for exclusive use by cooperative members. In fact, Méthot and the Québec Ministry of Agriculture wanted all syrup makers, whether or not they belonged to the cooperative, to start using them to sell syrup to customers. These cans were printed without any brand names and included a space for the syrup maker to add their name and address.[11]
In the US, unbranded, lithographed cans were introduced for filling for direct sale by syrup producers by S. Allen Soule out of Fairfield, Vermont in advance of the 1948 season. In contrast to the Québec can, Soule’s cans were all rectangular in shape and initially came out in larger sizes of quart, half-gallon, and full-gallon volumes.[12]
Advertisement from 1926 for maple syrup packed in round sanitary cans by the L.L. Jenne Maple Syrup and Sugar Company out of Sutton, Québec. Source – Ottawa Citizen, 7 December 1926, p 13.
The Québec can was not the first use of a round colored lithographed metal can in sizes less than a quart for packaging maple syrup in Canada or the US. Prior to this time, a number of syrup packing companies sold both pure and blended maple syrups in round cans of various sizes under their brand names. For example, the L.L. Jenne Maple Sugar and Syrup Company, LTD., out of Sutton, Québec sold syrup in 2 ½ and 5 pound round sanitary cans as early as the 1920s.[13] The cooperative itself sold tall round cans with a screw top under the Camp brand in the 1930s and 1940s. However, the Québec can in interest here was Québec’s first unbranded and generic lithographed can for individual syrup makers to pack their syrup for direct or local sale.[14]
Advertising cover from 1932 booklet published by the producers’ cooperative showing Camp and Citadelle branded maple syrup containers, including tall round cans with a pour spout and the Camp label.
It should also be pointed out that these No. 2 cans holding 26 oz. did not replace the one-gallon metal cans, they merely added a new sized and shaped container that made it easier for producers to get their syrup on the grocery store shelf, and easier and more attractive to those purchasing syrup. In fact, the larger sized cans in sizes of 5 liters or less, have never gone away as an option for Québec syrup makers to fill and for consumers to buy. Unlike the larger sized tall rectangular cans that had a screw-on cap and a pour spout, packaging syrup in these round sanitary cans required syrup makers to close and seal the can by attaching a lid over the entire top portion of the can. This form of closure required syrup makers to invest in a specialized can sealer, either hand powered or the more expensive power-operated can sealer.
Dominion & Grimm, Inc., advertisement from 1955 announcing the introduction of a new gallon sized lithographed can for packing maple syrup. Source – Le Bulletin des Agriculteurs, 1 December 1955, p58.
Although it was the cooperative, with the nudge from Méthot at the Ministry of Agriculture, that led the way in promoting and making possible the introduction of the 26 oz. tin, by no means was the producer’s cooperative the only source in Québec for 26 oz., No. 2 cans for packing syrup. The most iconic design to appear on these sized tins was introduced in 1955 by the Dominion & Grimm (D & G) maple syrup equipment company.[15]
Excerpt from the 1961 Dominion & Grimm maple syrup equipment and supplies catalog showing both rectangular cans and the round 26 oz. Québec can with the iconic D & G design.
Their design features a square red banner with the words “Pure Maple Syrup” above a sugarbush scene with a sugar house painted red. Dominion & Grimm first introduced this four-color lithographed design on tall rectangular -shaped one-gallon tins in 1955, but a few years later were offering the design on rectangular gallon, half-gallon, quart cans, and the infamous 26 oz. round cans. The earliest dated example I have found so far of the D & G round can is from their 1961 catalog. D & G’s beloved design continues to be in use after over sixty years.[16]
It is interesting that Dominion & Grimm did not appear to get on the band wagon for a 26 oz. sanitary can for maple syrup in Québec sooner than sometime after 1955, considering that the Dominion Company (before it combined with Grimm Mfg. LTD in 1953) had been selling canning and sterilizing equipment for years and was selling sanitary cans, for packaging honey, including the No. 2 size can, as early as 1953. [17]
Excerpt from 1981 advertisement for sale of Peter Stransky’s maple syrup cans. Note the Québec style can in the lower left. Source – 1981 Ontario Maple Syrup Producers Association Annual tour booklet.
For the greater part of the 1960s and 1970s, the only Québec cans available were manufactured by D & G. In the 1980s, a few Ontario based can makers and equipment dealers, such as Peter Stransky and Robson-Smith Sugar Bush Supplies introduced their own 540 ml round cans presumably for the Québec market, although those particular Québec cans did not appear for very long in their advertisements.
Although the producers’ cooperative led the way with introducing the size and shape of the Québec can, the D & G design became the iconic and most recognized design. But who is to be credited with that design!? One Québec historian described the D & G can as one of the most celebrated commercial designs in Québec history![18] In essence there were two mysteries of the Québec can, first who submitted the winning designs in the contest to introduce the Québec can and how were they used, which I have solved. The second, the question of the artist behind the most famous and lasting D & G image on the Québec can, still eludes us.
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UPDATE: Since posting the original article further research uncovered additional information about who may be credited with the design of the Dominion & Grimm can. See my post from February 11, 2022 for more details.
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With a little deeper digging and maple history detective work, I was able to learn a bit more about the story of the design contest that jump started these cans. With this knowledge, we are permitted to re-congratulate the winners, Emilianna Brunelle, Lionel Bégin, and H. Jacques and acknowledge the role they had in the origins of the famous maple syrup can Québec.
Updates – 1 December 2021 and 11 February 2022 and 23 September 2023
Acknowledgements: Special thanks to Québec maple historian, Pierre Rheaume, for sharing information related to this story and also to Ontario maple industry expert Bev Campbell for sharing information and images of containers from Ontario. Additional thanks to Réjean Bilodeau for allowing me to share photographs of a preserved example of the cooperative’s original can from 1952 and thanks to Maxime Caouette for calling to my attention the 1955 film by the Citadelle cooperative.
I am happy to share the second of a three-part article tracing the origins and development of plastic containers for the packaging and sale of maple syrup. Part II recently appeared in the September 2021 edition of the Maple Syrup Digest. You can read a PDF copy of this article by clicking on this link or the image of the first page of the article to the left.
This second part examines the introduction of the distinctive jug shape we still see today along with early silkscreened scenes of vintage sugarbushes and sugarhouses. Most notably, this article traces the history of the pioneers of plastic syrup jugs, Elmer Kress of Kress Creations, Charlie Bacon of Bacon’s Sugar House, Bob Lamb of Lamb plastic tubing fame, and S. Allen Soule of Fairfield Plastics.
The first of a three part article written by myself tracing the origins and development of plastic containers for the packaging and sale of maple syrup recently appeared in the June 2021 edition of the Maple Syrup Digest. You can read a PDF copy of this article by clicking on this link or the image of the first page of the article to the left.
This first part examines the early experiments with a variety of shapes, designs, and plastic materials for bottling maple syrup that were different than the traditional glass, ceramic, or metal containers. Parts two and three of this article, which will appear later this year, look at the introduction and key inventors and companies involved with the plastic jug we are more familiar with for bottling maple syrup today.
The article tells the story of the maple syrup operation started by Sherman and Pat Holbert in the maple woods around Mille Lacs Lake in east central Minnesota following the end of World War II. Starting in 1946, in a few short years the Holbert brothers maple operation went from nothing to what was probably the largest operation in the country at that time, making syrup from 28,000 taps. In addition, the Holberts became one of the first maple equipment dealers west of Michigan. Less than ten years after it got started, the Holberts shifted their business focus to other things. The operation closed its doors, the evaporators and gathering equipment were sold, and the syrup plant was converted to a roadside tourist attraction and gift shop.
Click on the image of the article above for a PDF of the full story.
Adin Reynolds in front of a steam jacketed kettle. Source: Adirondack Experience P071388.
By one measure of mid-century popular culture, greatness or notoriety was achieved when one appeared on one of the television shows, What’s My Line, I’ve Got a Secret, or To Tell The Truth. On these shows celebrity judges attempted to guess the identity of a notable contestant placed among a group of imposters. In 1965, Adin Reynolds of Aniwa, Wisconsin had the honor of appearing on To Tell The Truth by virtue of his family business, Reynolds Sugar Bush, being the largest maple syrup making operation in the world. Reynolds’s appearance on television was surprising to many since Wisconsin is not among the first states that come to mind when thinking about maple syrup production.[1]
Since the Reynolds family arrived in Wisconsin from New York State in 1845, making maple sugar and syrup had always been one of many components of the family’s diversified subsistence and commercial activities. However, like many of their Shawano County neighbors, it was logging, sawmill operations, and dairy farming, not maple syrup production, that formed the core of the family business during their first 70 years in the state.[2]
Reynolds Sugar Bush pure maple syrup can. Source: Private collection.
Over the course of the first half of the twentieth century maple syrup production in the United States was in a state of gradual decline. While this decline was most pronounced in New England and New York, the core of the maple producing region, it was also true of Wisconsin maple syrup production. Maple syrup and maple sugar making has been a spring time activity in the seasonal rural economy of Wisconsin starting with the resident Native American population to early Euro-American settlers, and on to the dairy and those harvesting forest-products in the far north.[3]
In the years following World War II, maple syrup making reached an all-time low in the United States. At the same time, rural America was witnessing important shifts in attitudes and demographics along with the introduction of new agricultural technology and business models. For those that were able to recognize the opportunities and willing to take the risks, such change presented opportunities previously not possible. It was from such a place and a willingness to think and act independently that Reynolds Sugar Bush grew from making syrup as a small seasonal side pursuit to their sawmill and dairy operation, to a year-round, factory-scale business, becoming the industry leader far from the maple syrup heartland of the northeastern United States and adjacent Quebec.
Cover of Reynolds Sugar Bush 1964 equipment sales catalog. Catalogs from additional years came in different colors schemes (brown, blue, red, green). Source: collection of author.
The ability for a syrup operation to grow so large was possible by building the right processing facilities and infrastructure, having a market to sell the syrup, and literally tapping into the trees of their neighbors. But growth did not happen overnight. The Reynolds family had been tapping a few thousand trees in the mid-1940s but in 1947, things began to change when they built a new sugarhouse near their farm house, adjacent to a paved county road and alongside the Chicago and Northwestern Railroad line. They also began a partnership that year as the midwestern dealer and distributor of maple syrup making equipment for the Vermont Evaporator Company. With the syrup plant now alongside the road and making syrup on two large evaporators, they began buying sap from around 4,000 of their neighbors’ taps, augmenting more than 6,000 taps on their own land.[4]
To provide some stability and supplement their farm and forest products business, years earlier Adin Reynolds had taken work as a part-time mail carrier, later becoming the postmaster of Aniwa in 1948. His new emphasis on maple syrup making and equipment sales were paying off, and in 1951 Adin retired from the post office and began focusing on maple full-time. Up until the late 1940s there were no maple equipment dealers in Wisconsin or adjacent Minnesota and maple producers had to buy their evaporators and other large supplies from dealers in Ohio, New York, or New England. There was a clear opportunity and eager group of customers in the Midwest.[5] Around this same time, Reynolds also entered the syrup buying business, purchasing bulk syrup from other producers to be combined and resold to larger processors, syrup blenders, and bottlers. In 1948 the J.M. Abraham Company of Bellefontaine, Ohio contracted with Reynolds to provide the Ohio syrup packing company with all the syrup Reynolds Sugar Bush was willing to spare from their own production and all the syrup Reynolds could acquire locally. Reynolds Sugar Bush began shipping truckloads of syrup to the Abraham Company, adding syrup buying and brokering to the growing portfolio of their maple syrup operation.[6]
Left to right, Lynn Reynolds, Juan Reynolds, Adin Reynolds, and Bob Lamb in front of Reynolds Sugar Bush Aniwa syrup plant, circa 1960. Source: Adirondack Experience P071388
Although Adin was founder and leader of Reynolds Sugar Bush, his two sons, Juan and Lynn, were graduating from high school and making their way in the world as adults. Both sons always had roles in the syrup business, but as young men they were able to take on greater responsibility. The early half of the 1950s saw Juan and Lynn temporarily pulled away from the family business with Korean War era service in the Army and Marines followed by college education. However, in the late 1950s both sons had returned to Aniwa and began working full-time in the now flourishing family maple business. As Lynn Reynolds later described it, in the late 1950s and 1960s Adin oversaw everything and “created the management, marketing, and financing; Juan managed the plant and the personnel; and Lynn was the public relations person, salesman for equipment, the syrup buyer, and managed the production plants.”[7]
Image of the new Reynolds Sugar Bush building in 1954. Photo by Dean Tvedt. Source: University of Wisconsin-Madison archives.
Through the 1950s, Adin continued to expand Reynolds Sugar Bush syrup making operation, using his quiet charisma to convince farmers and woodlot owners around Shawano, Langlade, and Marathon Counties to tap their maple trees and sell their raw sap to Reynolds. Reynolds also began renting additional trees to augment the maples on their own 800 acres as well as buying sap from their neighbors. In 1949 Reynolds added a third large (6’ x 20’) evaporator, and by 1956, the Reynolds were making syrup from 25,000 of their own taps and buying sap from many thousands more. Another evaporator was added to the plant in 1958 and all four evaporators were converted from wood burning to oil burning. Adin Reynolds was said to have hated cutting a maple tree, comparing it to cutting off an arm, so the family never thinned their maple woods and burned waste slabs from a local sawmill prior to switching to oil.[8]
Interior of Reynolds Sugar Bush plant showing large, side-by-side, oil fired evaporators. Source: Unknown.
Processing sap gathered from many independently owned sugarbushes at one large boiling facility became known as the Central Evaporator Plant (CEP) model, and Reynolds Sugar Bush became leaders in perfecting and promoting the CEP.[9] The idea of only selling sap rather than taking on the whole task of making finished syrup was not invented by Reynolds, although he took it to another level. The Wisconsin Department of Agriculture had been promoting the idea and use of a central evaporation plant for maple syrup producers since the 1930s.[10] Locally in the 1930s and 1940s, a group called the Antigo Maple Syrup Producers Association, in which Adin Reynolds was an early leader, attempted to pool their efforts in processing sap and marketing maple, without much success.[11] For Wisconsinites, the CEP concept will look familiar, with its strong resemblance to the arrangement of local dairies, creameries, and milk cooperatives, where dozens of farmers sell or deliver their raw milk to a central processing facility. Like butterfat in milk, the value of and compensation for raw maple sap was based on its relative sugar content measured by a refractometer. Sap at 1.5% sugar might get three cents a gallon while sap at 6% sugar might earn six cents a gallon. As Juan Reynolds described it, “if they had a halfway decent season and a good sugar content, they could make at minimum a dollar a tap. One guy down the road had real sweet trees, he often averaged more than $2 a tap, that is more than a guy making maple syrup could do after you have invested in all the boiling equipment and marketed it.”[12] As with milk, sap from multiple sources is combined and handled by individuals with the technology, expertise, and market connections to turn their raw product into a packaged or processed item for sale and distribution. Combining and finishing the concentrated sap at a central location resulted in better quality and more uniform syrup than was often produced in smaller sugar houses and backyard boiling operations at that time.[13]
Adin Reynolds pouring sap from the Sap Sak collection bag he invented. Source: Wausau Daily Herald – April 21, 1972
The countryside around the Aniwa plant is marked with dairy farms interspersed between stands of second growth sugar maples. Farm families had the two most important components for sap production – trees and available labor to tap and gather. Moreover, the months of March and April were the slow and muddy seasons for most farm families. People in the region were more than willing to tap their maple trees and sell their sap for cash. Juan Reynolds recalled that they had as many as 50-60 families from within a 20-mile radius selling sap to them, with most of the sap sellers tapping 500-800 trees.[14]
In 1959, the General Foods Corporation, the makers of Log Cabin Syrup, a blend of cane and maple syrup, contracted with Reynolds Sugar Bush to purchase 20,000 gallons of maple syrup. With scheduled deliveries of syrup from Reynolds’ Aniwa plant to General Foods’ Chicago bottling plant, Reynolds began serious entry into the syrup buying business. For General Foods, the Aniwa bottling plant was attractive because it was close enough to Chicago that Reynolds Sugar Bush could fill syrup orders quickly, if needed. This large of a syrup contract led Reynolds to start shipping syrup 4,000-gallons at a time via tanker truck. Wisconsin was not producing enough syrup to meet this need, so Reynolds began buying in the northeastern United States and Canada.
Tanker truck for hauling large deliveries of maple syrup parked in front of Reynolds Sugar Bush plant, circa early 1960s. Source: unknown.
At its peak, the General Foods contract had Reynolds Sugar Bush shipping twenty-seven tanker loads (108,000 gallons) of syrup from Aniwa to Chicago. At that time in history, moving this volume of maple syrup out of a midwestern hub rather than New England or Quebec was a significant departure from how the maple industry had traditionally operated. Reynolds continued this contract with General Foods for 20 years until General Foods reduced the amount of maple syrup in their Log Cabin blend from 15% in 1959 to 2% by 1979. After the General Foods Corporation merged with Philip Morris in 1985 the previous contract arrangements were no longer honored and Reynolds Sugar Bush stopped supplying maple syrup to General Foods.[15]
With a growing contract for bulk syrup and more markets opening up, Reynolds Sugar Bush went through a period of expansion buying three equally large syrup making operations, beginning in 1960 with the purchase of George Klement’s Maple Orchard in nearby Polar, Wisconsin. For much of the 1950s, the Klement sugarhouse was also operating with a central evaporator plant model similar to Reynolds, buying sap from 50,000 taps and making syrup on four large 6’ x 20’ King brand evaporators. Other than converting the evaporators from wood fired to oil fired, the Reynolds changed little, continuing to work with Klement’s sap sellers and expanded the number of taps coming in to 65,000. In 1963 Reynolds acquired the CEP operation of Sidney Maas at Tilleda, Wisconsin where syrup was made on two 6’ x 16’ Vermont Evaporator Company boiling rigs.
Left to Right, Adin Reynolds, Lynn Reynolds, Juan Reynolds, and Bob Lamb in front of a large oil-fired evaporator at Reynolds Sugar Bush, circa 1960. Source: Adirondack Experience P071388.
Reynolds converted these from wood to oil and now all the CEPs under Reynolds control were fired with fuel oil. Since those plants relied on sap from the forests of sap providers, Reynolds did not have a ready supply of wood to burn.[16] The sap input was further increased at these plants and by 1964, Reynolds Sugar Bush was making syrup from sap coming in from over 100,000 taps.[17] The Reynolds’ confidence was clearly very high by this time, so much so that in 1961 Adin made the claim that the output from sugarbushes in the Aniwa area could outproduce any comparable area in Vermont![18]
The third maple syrup operation purchased by Reynolds Sugar Bush in the 1960s was in Kingsley, Michigan a short distance south of Traverse City. The Kingsley plant was opened in 1962 by General Foods who wanted to improve their access to maple syrup in an area relatively close to their Chicago bottling facility. Identifying Kingsley as an area with an abundance of maple trees and a local agricultural population that was largely without work in the spring months, General Foods leased an old pickle factory in town, engineered a sap boiling facility, installed four 6’ x 18’ oil fired, stainless steel evaporators, and operated it as a CEP from purchased sap. To assist and encourage the new sap producers to acquire tapping equipment, General Foods purchased large quantities of spiles and buckets to supplement the limited local supply and arranged a loan program with a local bank to finance producers.[19] By 1964, the Kingsley plant was making syrup from 65,000 taps.[20] Despite the size of the operation, its engineering was more complicated than it needed to be, and it was not running as smoothly as General Foods had envisioned. Having an existing relationship with Reynolds Sugar Bush and a familiarity with their other successful plants, in 1966 General Foods sold the plant to Reynolds Sugar Bush for next to nothing with the condition that all the syrup produced by the plant be sold to General Foods.[21] Reynolds operated the Kingsley plant as one of their satellite CEPs until the 1970s when interest in sap selling in the area fell to unmanageably low numbers and the plant was closed.[22]
Reynolds’ sales booth at Wisconsin State Fair, early 1960s. Left to Right, Geraldine Reynolds, Juan Reynolds, unnamed Alice in Dairyland, Adin Reynolds. Source: Wisconsin Maple Syrup Producers Association.
Always looking for new ways to expand and promote the maple syrup industry and Reynolds Sugar Bush, Adin and family often hit the road in the summer, setting up sales and display booths at state fairs and festivals, and giving industry talks around the Midwest. Before the Wisconsin State Maple Syrup Producers’ Association (WMSPA) took over the responsibility in the 1990s, the Reynolds’ 100-foot by 40-foot display was the primary promotional booth for maple syrup at the Wisconsin State Fair.[23]
Color photo postcard of Reynolds Sugar Bush gift shop “The Sugar House,” circa 1965. Source: collections of author.
Reynolds even erected “The Sugar House” a roadside gift shop along Highway 45 targeted at tourist traffic travelling between Milwaukee and Chicago and the woods and lake country of northern Wisconsin.
One of Adin Reynolds most popular ideas for promoting the maple industry was an annual pancake breakfast and maple festival. Starting in 1950 with around 1000 visitors, every spring for over forty years, thousands of people descended on the Reynolds farm to celebrate the state’s maple syrup industry while enjoying a pancake breakfast, seeing what was new in maple syrup production, and finding out who made the state’s best maple syrup that year. In 1956 the WMSPA came on board to help and the festival grew to as many as 5000 attendees.[24]
Lynn Reynolds operating the pancake machine at the Wisconsin Maple Syrup Festival held at the Reynolds Sugar Bush each May. Source: Appleton, WI Post Crescent, May 29, 1966.
Visitors were treated to maple syrup themed exhibits and speakers, live entertainment, and served an all you can eat pancake breakfast. Pancakes were cranked out on an assembly line with a pancake making machine designed by Adin called the “pancake depositor” that poured the batter for 24 pancakes at a time onto a griddle.[25] Maple producers entered their best syrup from the year for judging, competing for the honor of receiving the golden sap pail or golden sap spout. For 45 years the Wisconsin maple syrup festival continued to be held at Reynolds Sugar Bush through 1995 when it moved to Merrill and became the responsibility of the WMSPA.[26]
Patent drawing for Adin Reynolds’ Sap Sak. US patent No. 3,304,654. Source: US Patent and Trademark Office Website.
By the mid to late 1960s, all four plants operated by Reynolds Sugar Bush combined were processing over 1200 gallons of sap an hour on a dozen large evaporators from sap gathered from over 200,000 taps.[27] Adin had even earned a patent for his invention of a simple and economical hanger for disposable plastic sap bags, called the Sap Sak.[28] Without question, as emphasized with Adin’s 1965 television appearance on To Tell the Truth, Reynolds Sugar Bush had become the largest maple syrup making operation in the world.[29]
Although he was operating far from the maple syrup heartland, industry leaders in the North American Maple Syrup Council (NAMSC), recognizing the significance of Adin Reynolds’ influence and leadership, electing him Council Vice President in 1963 and President in 1965.[30] Reynolds were strong proponents for research and bringing together the US and Canada sides of the industry in addressing maple issues important to both countries. Putting those views to action, Adin was instrumental in helping organize the International Maple Syrup Institute (IMSI), a group focused on developing markets for the maple industry. Adin Reynolds served as the IMSI’s second president from 1976 to 1977 and on its Board of Directors from 1980 to 1984.
Lynn Reynolds, past President and Executive Director or the IMSI. Source: Back cover of Reynolds’ book – Reynolds, Maple and History – Fit for Kings.
Sons Juan Reynolds and Lynn Reynolds were as equally engaged as their father and continued his legacy of leadership with Juan an IMSI Board member from 1985 to 1997 and President in 1990 and Lynn an IMSI President from 1993 to 1995 and Executive Director from 1995 until his death in 1998. Lynn also served in a series of roles as NAMSC secretary, then Vice President and President from 1989 to 1993.[31] The IMSI established a Lynn Reynolds Memorial Leadership Award in 1999 to recognize the outstanding leadership of individuals in support of the international maple syrup industry.[32]
Adin Reynolds receiving recognition award from Dean of College of Agriculture in 1982, surrounded by other recipients of recognition. Source: Archives of the University of Wisconsin College of Agriculture.
Adin retired from running Reynolds Sugar Bush in 1979 and turned over the leadership of the company to his son Juan. With retirement, Adin was given the highest honor by the maple syrup industry when he was chosen as the fifth inductee for the North American Maple Syrup Producers Hall of Fame. In 1982 he was one of five men recognized by the University of Wisconsin for his contribution to agriculture and quality of life in Wisconsin by the Dean of the College of Agriculture and Life Science at the University of Wisconsin-Madison.[33] Adin passed away in 1987 as the age of 82. Following in his father’s footsteps, Lynn Reynolds was inducted into the Maple Syrup Producers Hall of Fame in 1995 as the forty-second inductee.[34]
Juan Reynolds testing sugar content of maple syrup. Source: Milwaukee Journal – April 11, 1977.
In the 1980s changing markets and an increased difficulty in finding seasonal labor pushed Reynolds Sugar Bush to scale back its sap buying and syrup production to making syrup at only one plant at their original location on the farm north of Aniwa.[35] Rapid growth in syrup production out of Quebec and lowering syrup prices became too difficult to compete with, leading to the loss of two of their biggest clients on the west coast. Eventually the losses became too great for Reynolds Sugar Bush and in 1991 they were forced to liquidate many of their assets, including their sugarbush, and resize and restructure the company as part of bankruptcy proceedings.[36] Around this time, two of their largest sap providers decided to make their own syrup leaving Reynolds Sugar Bush with too little sap coming in to effectively make syrup in a plant of their size. With reorganization and a limited sap supply, syrup production came to an end for Reynolds Sugar Bush, although equipment sales continued.
Jay Reynolds collecting sap from Sap Sak Source: Milwaukee Journal March 31, 1981.
Operation of the company was put in the hands of Juan’s and Lynn’s children, the next generation of Reynolds, and Juan and Lynn Reynolds moved into retirement, although neither was especially idle when it came to helping with the family business or the involvement in industry associations. Lynn Reynolds carried on with his efforts as a representative and advocate for the industry in North America until his death in 1998 and Juan remained a hands-on advisor to the family business until his passing in 2008.[37]
Appearance of Reynolds Sugar Bush boiling plant when it was no longer operational in 2002. Photo by author.
With the Reynolds’ leadership and the foundation they helped lay, Wisconsin maple syrup producers went from being a minor contributor in the maple syrup industry to one of the leading states.[38] Reynolds own production numbers were undeniably significant, as was their influence as sap buyers, equipment sellers, and syrup brokers. Adin Reynolds succeeded in establishing a collaborative maple syrup production process based on the modern creamery that made sense in a dairy state like Wisconsin. Attempts at making syrup from purchased sap in the Northeastern United States and adjacent Canada have never been embraced the way it was in Wisconsin, possibly a result of the CEP production model being a significant departure and challenge to traditional ideas of syrup making. However, as one of the lead federal maple syrup researchers described it, “the current trend toward central evaporator plants has marked a new era in the maple industry.”[39] During the height of Reynolds Sugar Bush, Wisconsin moved from being the eighth ranked maple syrup producing state in 1930 to fifth in 1940 and 1950, to third in 1960, behind Vermont and New York where it more or less hovered for the next three decades.[40] Unfortunately for the Reynolds, the industry and markets shifted more rapidly than they were able to adjust and they could not maintain the same operation as they had in the past. Change came, as it always does, and it cost them but not before the Reynolds family and Reynolds Sugar Bush left their mark and put Wisconsin maple syrup making on the map.
Acknowledgements: Financial assistance for completion of the research for this article was provided in part by a McIntire-Stennis Program grant from the United States Department of Agriculture as part of the University of Wisconsin-Madison doctoral dissertation research of the author. Special thanks to Anne Reynolds for her support and assistance with this research.
Additional posts on this website related to the Reynolds Sugar Bush can be found at these links:
[3] Matthew M. Thomas, Where the Forest Meets the Farm: A Comparison of Spatial and Historical Change in the Euro-American and American Indian Maple Production Landscape PhD dissertation, (University of Wisconsin-Madison, 2004).
[4] Reynolds would continue to sell for the Vermont Evaporator Company for the lifetime of that company, which was sold to the Leader Evaporator Company in 1972. Reynolds Sugar Bush then carried Leader brands for the remaining years of their equipment sales business. Reynolds, Reynolds, 359.
[5] Ibid, page number; Juan Reynolds, personal interview with author, 31 July 2002.
[8] Juan Reynolds, interviewed by the author, July 31, 2002, Aniwa, WI; Reynolds, 371.
[9] Matthew M. Thomas, “The Central Evaporator Plant in Wis. Maple History,” Wisconsin Maple News 21, no. 2 (2005): 10.
[10] “Favor Central Boiling Plant: State Speaker Says Maple Syrup Should be Made Like Creamery Butter,” Chippewa Herald Telegram, December 2, 1931; Peter Dale Weber, “Wisconsin Maple Products: Production and Marketing”, Wisconsin State Department of Agriculture Bulletin No. 335 (Madison, WI, 1956), 37.
[11] “Maple Syrup Plant is now in Operation at Antigo; Sap Delivered from 40 Groves,” Wausau Daily Herald, March 27, 1934; “Maple Syrup Season Near in Wisconsin: Langlade County Center of Production in Wisconsin,” Kenosha Evening News, February 26, 1936; Weber, 25-27.
[12] Jerry -Apps, Cheese: The Making of a Wisconsin Tradition (Amherst, WI: Amherst Press, 1998); Loyal Durand, Jr., “The Migration of Cheese Manufacture in the United States,” Annals of the Association of American Geographers 42, no. 2 (1952): 263-282; C.O. Willits and Claude H. Hills, Maple Sirup Producers Manual. Agriculture Handbook No. 134. (Washington, DC: USDA Agricultural Research Service, slightly revised July 1976), 116-117; Juan Reynolds, personal interview with author, 31 July 2002.
[13]Thomas, “Central Evaporator Plant in Wis.”; J.C. Kissinger, Lloyd Sipple, and C.O. Willits, “Maple Sap Delivered to a Central Evaporation Plant – A Progress Report,” Maple Syrup Digest 3, no3 (1964): 8-10.
[14] Juan Reynolds, interviewed by the author, September 19, 2002, Aniwa, WI.
[15] Reynolds, 398-400; “A Sticky Situation: Maple Syrup Providers Can’t Satisfy Demand,” Wall Street Journal June 23, 1967; “Log Cabin Syrup Maker Cuts Maple Use From 3% to 2%,” Pittsburgh Press, January 15, 1979; Juan Reynolds, interviewed by the author, July 31, 2002, Aniwa, WI; Prior to Reynolds, Sherman Holbert in Minnesota had a syrup contract with General Foods in the late 1940s and early 1950s. Matthew M. Thomas, “Short and Sweet: Sherman Holbert’s Mid-Century Mille Lacs Lake Maple Syrup Experiment,” Minnesota History 66 no. 2 (2018): 66-73.
[16] “They stick to syrup: Four-generation operation near Antigo,” Green Bay Press-Gazette, April 5, 1964.
[17] The Tilleda and Polar plants were closed in the1970s when sap prices were too low to continue operation. The Polar plant equipment and facility were sold in pieces and the Tilleda plant was sold back to Sidney Maas. Maas later sold the Tilleda plant to Wagner’s Sugarbush out of Peshtigo who still run the plant as part of their large syrup making operation. Reynolds, 425, 434; Lloyd Sipple, “National Council News,” Maple Syrup Digest 5, no. 4 (1966): 4-6.
[18] “Sweet Challenge for Tree-Tappers in Vermont Given,” Green Bay Press-Gazette, April 3, 1961.
[19] “Sap Goes to Market,” Traverse City Record-Eagle, April 13, 1962; “Streamlined Syrup Operations at Kingsley,” Traverse City Record-Eagle, May 27, 1962.
[20] “Sap Will Flow in U.P., But Not Into Bank,” Escanaba Daily Press, March 1, 1965.
[21] “Reynolds Sugarbush, Inc. of Aniwa, Wisconsin, announces the purchases of General Foods of Kingsley,” Traverse City Record-Eagle, February 21, 1967.
[23] Ibid., 412-413; Adin Reynolds, “Wisconsin Promotes Maple,” Maple Syrup Digest 7, no. 4 (1968): 6-7; “Buckets Fulla dollars: Maple Syrup is Called Bonanza Bet in Peninsula,” Escanaba Daily Press, February 19, 1964; “Local Residents not Utilizing Maple Trees to Fullest for Maple Syrup,” Bedford Daily Times (Bedford, IN), January 9, 1964; “Area Maple Syrup Potential Said Untapped,” Daily Journal (Fergus Falls, MN), February 5, 1965.
[24] Reynolds, 372-373; “1st Maple Syrup Festival Sunday,” Milwaukee Sentinel Extra May 26, 1956, 6; “Maple Syrup Festival Draws Large Turnout,” Wausau Daily Herald, May 23, 1960; “Maple Syrup Promotion in Wisconsin,” National Maple Syrup Digest 3, no. 3 (1964): 7; “Despite Weather, 3,000 Attend Maple Syrup Festival,” Green Bay Press-Gazette, May 27, 1968.
[25] “Flapjack Assembly Line in Production Today in Aniwa,” The Post Crescent Sun, May 29, 1966.
[26] Reynolds Sugar Bush even took their pancake making assembly line on the road. For about 10 years in the 1950s and 60s they provided pancake making services at festivals around the Midwest, while selling their syrup to the visitors. Reynolds, 402.
[27] “Staid Maple Syrup Industry Goes Modern,” Post Crescent (Appleton, WI), April 16, 1967; “Sugar Moon Season,” Wausau Daily Herald, April 21, 1972.
[28] Adin C. Reynolds, Device for Collecting Pourable Materials, US Patent 3304654, issued February 21, 1967.
[29] With an operation of over 200,000 taps by the mid-1960s Reynolds Sugar Bush was unquestionably the largest in the world. Interestingly, as early as 1954 there were those that were describing Reynolds as the world’s largest. “Dr. and Mrs. R.C. Dygert…,” Argos Reflector (Argos, IN), September 16, 1954.
[30] Adin Reynolds, “Council,” National Maple Syrup Digest 4, no. 4 (1965): 5.
[31] “State syrup maker will guide council,” The Country Today, October 30, 1991.
[32] The North American Maple Syrup Council began life in 1959 as the National Maple Syrup Council with a particular focus on advancing and improving the United States maple syrup industry with a special focus on supporting research. It changed its names from National to North American in 1973 to expand its scope and integrate the views and needs of the entire maple industry in both the United States and Canada. “Brief History of the Development of the North American Maple Syrup Council” North America Maple Syrup Council website accessed at http://northamericanmaple.org/index.php/history-of-namsc/.
[33] “UW to honor Adin Reynolds,” Wausau Daily Herald, March 12, 1982.
[34] “Adin Reynolds,” Wausau Daily Herald, December 15, 1987; “Lynn Reynolds Joins Maple Syrup Hall of Fame,” Post Crescent (Appleton, WI) June 4, 1995.
[35] “Snow perks up morale at Reynolds’ Sugarbush,” Wausau Daily Herald, March 18, 1983; “It must be spring, steam is rising in maple country,” The Country Today, April 5, 1984.
[36] “Syrup producer files bankruptcy,” Capital Times, March 27, 1991; Melissa lake, “Price war sours syrup business,” Wausau Daily Herald, March 26, 1991; “Maple syrup maker battles Quebec prices: Reynolds Sugar Bush is largest independent firm,” Wausau Daily Herald, March 18, 1992.
[37] “Lynn H. Reynolds,” Post Crescent (Appleton, WI), September 1, 1998; “In Memorium: Juan L. Reynolds,” Maple Syrup Digest 20A, no. 2 (2008): 38.
[38] “Maple Syrup Promotion in Wisconsin,” Maple Syrup Digest vol 3, no. 4, October 1954: 7.
[40] Gary Graham, Maple Syrup Production Statistics: An Updated Report to the North American Maple Syrup Council (Ohio State University Extension, October 2016); “Maple Syrup Production in State Hits High: Wisconsin Jumps from Fifth to Third in Nation”, AppletonPost Crescent, May 26, 1961. In the 2000s the state of Maine, with strong connections to neighboring Quebec, greatly increased its maple syrup product such that it is now the number two or three producing state behind perpetual leaders Vermont and sometimes New York state. Wisconsin has been bumped to a rank of fourth or fifth depending on the year.
As part of the Dominion & Grimm maple syrup equipment manufacturing company’s Virtual Spring Event, they have put together and shared a great video tracing their origins and history. You can see the video in English at the Youtube link below. There is also a French version available at this link.
It is with great pleasure that this website has been given permission to share an English translation of an interesting and important article tracing the role of Cyrille Vaillancourt and the Georges L’Hoir Company in the manufacturing and adoption of aluminum sap collection pails and the effort to eliminate lead from maple syrup in Quebec.
The original article, written in French by Quebec historian Pierre Prévost, appeared in the Winter 2018 edition (Volume 30, No. 1) of Au fil des ans, Revue de la Société historique de Bellechasse (the Journal of the Bellechasse Historical Society). You can view the original article in French on pages 23 to 28 at this link. For those interested in Quebec maple history, the Winter 2018 edition of this journal contains many other articles, all in French, related to the history of the maple syrup industry in the regional county municipality of Bellechasse, Quebec.
Many thanks to the author, Pierre Prévost, to the President of la Société historique de Bellechasse, and to the editor of the journal for agreeing to my request to translate and share the article on this website.
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L’Hoir Comes to the Aid of the Sugarmakers
By Pierre Prévost
Au fil des ans, Revue de la Société historique de Bellechasse (Winter 2018) Vol. 30, No. 1, pp. 23-28.
On April 10, 1936, American customs officers blocked three wagons of maple products shipped by the Quebec maple sugar Cooperative. Lead contamination is involved, the heavy and toxic metal that causes dreaded effects on the nervous system. Research performed in Vermont a few months earlier indicated the presence of lead in sap collected from maple trees. Since this observation, federal inspectors are vigilant and strict.
Americans want quality
Since 1906, the Pure Food and Drug Act prohibited the sale of contaminated food on American soil. Americans had been burned in the 1920s by Canadian maple sugar that was often of poor quality and in which was sometimes found oat bran, brown sugar, and even pebbles. The minister of Agriculture of the time, Joseph Edouard Caron, then appointed Cyrille Vaillancourt to organize Quebec maple syrup producers and promote the production of quality sugar and syrup. On May 2, 1925, the “Cooperative of Quebec maple sugar producers” was born and a campaign to educate the maple industry was in full swing. In the fall of 1928, Plessisville located at the center of the maple syrup region, became home to the packaging and processing factory. Vaillancourt brought the maple industry to a level never before seen, and in the 1930s even managed to break the monopoly on purchasing Quebec syrup held by American George Cary. This time the problem is quite different and Vaillancourt must remedy it.
Cyrille Vaillancourt, 1946. Source: Historical Society of Alphonse- Gardens.
The chemists of the Plessisville laboratories do not give up. They find the presence of lead in the shipped syrup and, powerless, appeal to their colleagues from all walks of life. They get the support of Elphège Bois, director of the Department of Biochemistry at Laval University, who, after some experiments, manages to solidify the lead and extract it from the unsaleable syrup. The seized cargo is subjected to the treatment and the purified syrup is allowed to proceed Chicago.
However, the problem of contamination with lead oxides is found to occur in the early stages of maple syrup production, a bitter conclusion of the chemists from Plessisville. Lead is likely entering syrup from the collection and storage of sap. Spiles, sap pails, evaporation equipment, transport containers and tanks are targeted, because tinned iron and solder release a tiny amount of heavy metal when in contact with maple sap and syrup, which are acidic in nature, with a pH between 3.4 to 6.6. Aluminum would be the ideal replacement material but is too expensive for maple syrup producers. The main concern of Cyrille Vaillancourt, the manager of the maple sugar cooperative is to find a manufacturer capable of producing good quality aluminum buckets with a two-gallon capacity.
In a random conversation, Cyrille Vaillancourt hears about the director of a specialized stainless-steel factory located in Liège, Belgium. There was a big report in the news a few years earlier about Professor Auguste Picard who was the first researcher to access the remotest part of Earth’s atmosphere. In the meantime, with a restructuring of the Food and Drug Administration in 1938, Washington was tightening its control of food in the United States.
The expertise of L’Hoir
Auguste Piccard pose in front of the sphere manufactured at L’Hoir. This inventor is known to be one of inspirations for the author Hergé’s character of the teacher Sunflower. Source: Federal Archives of Germany.
Originally from Switzerland, Auguste Piccard (1884-1962) became an expert in physics and went to university in Brussels to teach. In 1929, Piccard submitted a daring project to the national scientific research fund recently founded by King Albert. Seduced by the idea of exploring the stratosphere in a balloon, the organization granted him the 400,000 Belgian francs required for the experimental manned flight in the upper atmosphere. Piccard needed a lightweight sphere made from a sufficiently robust aluminum that could withstand an environment where the pressure is only a tenth of that measured on the ground.
Piccard went to meet Georges L’Hoir, who then ran a beer can manufacturing factory in Angleur, on the outskirts of Liège, the cradle of the zinc industry and a former world capital of the steel industry. L’Hoir saw no problem with the request despite not knowing what the 2.1 meters in diameter and 3.5 millimeters thick sphere was intended for. This sphere will become the pride of L’Hoir and will help spread their notoriety throughout the world. “This is the first time that we’ve make a beer barrel in this shape! “(Reply by Georges-Armand L’Hoir to Auguste Piccard)
A first test set for September 14, 1930 was postponed due to adverse weather conditions. Early on the morning of May 27, 1931, near Augsburg, Germany, Auguste Piccard, assisted by engineer Paul Kipfer, took off inside the aluminum capsule supported by a balloon that had to expand to a diameter of 30 meters.
Ascending at the rate of half a kilometer a minute allowed him to realize the first pressurized flight while climbing to 15,781 meters, a height never previously reached by a living being and the first of a series of world records assigned to Piccard. Despite some pitfalls, the crew travelled 1,800 kilometers and finally landing on a glacier in Austria, before the reserves of oxygen ran out. Their return to civilization was triumphant and the news toured the globe.
Auguste Piccard returned to Georges L’Hoir’s factory to have a second, improved version of the capsule manufactured: the first having been battered by the squalls of wind during its second test, its tightness was no longer insured. On August 18, 1932, Piccard rose again into the stratosphere, this time with the Belgian engineer Max Cosyns. They reached 16,940 meters altitude.
Georges-Armand L’Hoir in Canada
Portrait of Georges-Armand L’Hoir. Source: Society for the History of Lévis.
The exploits of Professor Piccard caused a sensation on all continents and the notoriety of Georges L’Hoir followed in their wake. Cyrille Vaillancourt had found the man for the job to supply millions of revolutionary sap pails. He communicates with the Belgian manufacturer to let him know what he is seeking and sends him samples. A few weeks pass, other samples come back with a written proposal then they wait. To their surprise, in May, Georges-Armand L’Hoir arrives in Lévis, a few days before the royal couple, and knocks on Cyril’s Vaillancourt’s door. It is not L’Hoir’s first visit to American soil, since he monitored the production of buses intended for Belgian government during the Great War. On this trip he wanted to come back to America to establish a new factory. It is said that he was courted by the citizens of Kitchener, Ontario who were ready to build him a factory to accommodate his machinery. The ball was now in the camp of the people of Lévis, and Vaillancourt, administrator of the Caisse populaire de Lévis, worked out some scenarios.
Note: Lévis is a city in eastern Quebec, Canada, located on the south shore of the St. Lawrence River, opposite Quebec City. A caisse populaire in Quebec is most similar to a what is called a credit union in the United States.
With the support of his counterpart Valmore de Billy, president of the Caisse de Lévis, Cyrille Vaillancourt submits a proposal to his colleagues to build a factory for the production of aluminum sap pails in Lévis. The credit committee deliberates and considers two financing scenarios for this project: either a group of citizens endorses Georges-Armand L’Hoir for a loan of up to $ 20,000; or the Caisse builds the factory at its own expense and L’Hoir would rent the facility at cost plus 5% interest. The leaders of the Caisse choose the second option considering that L’Hoir is a recognized industrialist, who has a strong credit rating with banks in Belgium and France, and on the condition that he agrees to stay in Lévis if he wants to expand his factory. A disbursement up to up to $ 20,000 is allowed for the construction of a factory of about 180 feet by 40 situated on reclaimed land by the river, a little downstream from Hadlow Cove. L’Hoir will have to pay monthly rent while the Maple Syrup Cooperative guarantees the purchase of all the sap pails as long as their price and quality are maintained.
Around 1960, these ladies work to complete the assembly and the polishing of aluminum spiles. Source: Company History of Lévis.
The idea of living in a traditional Quebec house that was the birthplace of the poet Louis Frechette quickly seduced the Belgian industrialist. A factory built behind the attractive house would benefit from a dock and access to the Canadian National Railway. Georges-Armand L’Hoir probably made the best choice since a highly militarized Nazi Germany was threating Liège which is only a few away kilometers from the border with Germany.
The Lévis plant is ready to open in the fall of 1939, when the German troops invade Poland, an act which leads to the declaration of war. The metallurgist and his family in retreat from Europe, settled in to their new Quebec home, while the factory receives machining tools and await the arrival of aluminum.
A vast replacement operation
Everything is in place to produce sap pails intended for Quebec maple syrup producers. However, aluminum is scarce since the aeronautical industry requires huge amounts of the white metal for the war effort. This situation goes against the views of Adélard Godbout, the newly elected Liberal Minister who was recently elected in solidarity with Ottawa Liberals who supported the war effort but did not advocate for conscription.
An agronomist by training, Adélard Godbout campaigns for the promotion of trade between Quebec and the United States. To this end, he negotiates with the federal government and the Aluminum Company of Canada (ALCAN) to allow a meager but sufficient share of the aluminum for the L’Hoir plant to meet the demands for new sap pails. Using his influence in Ottawa, the prime minister facilitates a temporary supply which, without it, the L’Hoir factory would have to close its doors. Production at the factory is vital for soldiers since it manufactures military containers, among other things. Almost two years have passed since the American embargo on Canadian maple products when, in 1940, Godbout established a trade delegation from the provincial general assembly to New York to promote and highlight Quebec products.
The next three images show the evolution of the L’Hoir factory originally built in 1939 in the backfilled land, enlarged towards the west in 1940 with a serrated roof to let in natural light, then again in 1950. Source: Historical Society of Lévis.
Aerial view of the L’Hoir factory, after 1950. Source: Historical Society of Lévis.
The country waits in vain for the end of rationing on metals. In the September 1940 edition of the publication L’Abeille et l’erable, Cyrille Vaillancourt announces that the metal controller in Ottawa has rationed 400,000 sap pails to be available for the spring season of 1941. At this rate, he would not see the end of the replacement operation. Vaillancourt had reached an agreement with the two governments to subsidize the cost of the pail replacement program being administered by the Cooperative. The producers must turn in their old sap pails and pay a third of the cost of the new pails with the federal and provincial governments each picking up a third of the remaining cost.
In December 1942, the L’Hoir company obtains a letters patent, and forms a corporation under the name “Les Produits en Aluminium et Acier Inoxydable L’Hoir Inc.” to “manufacture, buy, sell, and import all kinds of products, articles, and merchandise in metal and conduct trade in general and in particular engage in transactions directly or indirectly, to industry or commerce, for objects manufactured from aluminum or stainless steel”. In 1943, Vaillancourt obtains a better position to affect the supply when he became and advisor to the wartime price commission.
When the war is over, aluminum becomes abundant again and industry experiences unexpected economic growth. The L’Hoir factory continues to produce maple syrup equipment as well as lightweight saucepans that are popular with housewives. However, their founder dies in 1948, leaving his son Georges in charge of the company.
During the 1950s, larger and larger objects are coming out of the factory. The factory produces tanks of all kinds and shapes, fixed and mobile, that are intended for different liquids, such as alcoholic beverages, dairy products, vinegars, and other food products. In the case of sap pails, the replacement program comes to an end in March 1960. In all, about 18 million sap pails were made at L’Hoir, before plastic begins to see increased use in the maple industry.
In 1984, the company experienced difficulties and was sold in a last-ditch attempt to save it from bankruptcy. Ultimately, the factory closed its doors and looked for a new tenant and use. The house where Louis Fréchette was born remains uninhabited since 1985 and its fate remains uncertain. On November 11, 2000, Georges L’Hoir died at the Hôtel-Dieu in Lévis. His factory was demolished a few years later and the sale of the property remains unfinished. Ironically, Georges L’Hoir’s Belgian factory in Angleur, near the center of Liège, still partly exists, and is currently occupied by Drytec, a pneumatic industrial company.
“Our home was not precisely rich, but its relative elegance contrasted with most other houses in the neighborhood. I still see her in her frame of old hairy elms, with its green shutters, on a white background, its veranda, and its vegetable garden. “(Louis-Honoré Fréchette)
Thanks to L’Hoir’s expertise, maple products have seen a significant reduction in lead contamination. Since that time, the lead content in maple syrup made in Quebec is tested. If the concentration is too high, above 250 parts per billion, the maple syrup is destroyed. Aluminum sap pails are now antiques. Nevertheless, they are still widely used and recognized by almost any Quebecer whether they are being used for maple syrup or not.
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Pierre Prévost is vice-president of la Société historique de Bellechasse and carpenter-joiner. (Photography : Marie-Josée Deschênes, 2017.)
The Maple Syrup History website is pleased to share the following guest contributor post.
By Brenda Battel
The Battel family has produced maple syrup on its Michigan centennial farm since 1882. That’s when George Battel came from Ontario to settle 80 acres of land that he had purchased from a lumber company. The farm is located six miles northeast of Cass City, Tuscola County, MI.
George Battel stands near the iron kettle he used to boil sap over an open fire. He was the first of six generations to make syrup on the family farm.
In 1882, much of the land in Michigan’s “Thumb Area” was no longer of use to the lumber companies. The Great Fire of 1881 swept through Tuscola and surrounding counties in early September. More than a million acres burned. Hundreds died. Thousands were left destitute. It was the first official disaster that the American Red Cross responded to.
On the future site of the Battel farm, the fire spared a ten-acre grove of sugar maple and beech trees. This is where, six generations later, the family continues the tradition that George started in 1882.
Syrup in the early decades was produced for personal consumption. In the late 1920s, George’s sons (John, George and Daniel) started selling syrup commercially. It sold for $1 a gallon during the Great Depression of the 1930s. The brothers produced 75 to 100 gallons of syrup each spring.
Bob Battel taps a maple tree on the family’s’ syrup farm.
Every generation since has carried on the tradition: the Arthur Battel family (third generation), the Mark Battel family (fourth generation), and the Bob Battel family (5th generation). That includes Bob’s daughters (sixth generation). There are currently three generations working together in the family business: Mark and his wife, Diane; son Bob; his daughters, Addy and Dori; and their mom, Sue.
Bob says he feels a connection to his ancestors every spring.
“You kind of relate with what they did,” Bob said. “Each spring you look forward to the season starting. I’m sure George did too — and John and Dan and Art… You kind of feel connected to the ancestors in the end of February and beginning of March.”
Not only has the current price increased from $1 to $54 per gallon, but production has doubled since the Battel brothers started selling syrup in the 1920s. This is due to technology and efficiency — which are welcome improvements considering the amount of manual labor the task of making syrup entailed in the past.
Technology also allows the farm to be a family operation. Because of tubing, reverse osmosis and an evaporator upgrade, the Battels do not need to hire anyone outside of the family.
“(Production) depends a lot on the weather during the season,” Mark said. Below freezing temperatures at night and warmer days allow for optimum sap flow.
He said that in the early years of the commercial operation, the entire woods didn’t always get tapped. A tree must be tapped in order to harvest sap. A small hole is drilled into the tree so that the sap can flow through a spile, which is placed inside the hole. For more than a century, buckets were hung from the spiles to collect sap.
Twenty years ago, the family invested in a tubing and pump system, which eliminated buckets. Tubes are connected to the spiles. Tubes carry the sap through the woods to a pump station, which creates a vacuum. The sap is pumped into a holding tank near the sugar shack, where it is boiled into syrup. The tubing/pump system allows the Battels to harvest sap from smaller trees. Production increased by a third when the tubes were added.
Mark Battel holds a quart of maple syrup made on the family farm.
Prior to installing tubes, there were about 500 taps in the woods. Today, there are 700. The tubing/pump system didn’t just make it possible to tap more trees. It reduced a lot of labor spent gathering sap. Before the tubes were installed, Mark would drive a tractor and wagon through the trails in the woods. All 500 buckets of sap were manually dumped into the holding tank on the wagon.
Bob’s most vivid syrup-making memory is of his grandfather, Art, driving the tractor and wagon through trails in the woods to collect sap from the buckets hanging from the trees.
Seven years ago, the syrup operation, now known as Battel’s Sugarbush, LLC, invested in a reverse osmosis system.
“It takes some of the water out,” Mark said. “So it reduces your boiling time, and it uses less wood — less fuel.”
In 2020, the Battels upgraded the evaporator, which also makes the process more efficient and further reduces boiling time. The evaporator is 3 feet wide and 8 feet long. It preheats the sap. The fire is also hotter due to a fan beneath the evaporator. Another change is that thick steam no longer clouds the sugar shack. The steam goes from the enclosed evaporator directly up the chimney.
One thing hasn’t changed since 1882. It still takes 40 gallons of sap to boil down into one gallon of syrup. But it takes a lot less time today than it did for George 139 years ago. He used an iron kettle over an open fire. Near the very spot where George boiled his syrup sits the modern sugar shack. It houses the evaporator, reverse osmosis system, wood pile and canning station.
Addy Battel cans syrup for her business, County Line Kids Pure Maple Syrup.
When Addy was 12, she won a grant to launch a new syrup business with neighbor and former business partner, Ethan Healy, who was 13. County Line Kids Pure Maple Syrup taps and gathers 100 of the taps on the farm. They boil, can, market and sell 10-15 gallons of syrup each spring. The kids use small, novelty containers for the finished product. The largest size is a pint. County Line Kids splits the profits with Mark, to pay for leasing the trees and using the facility to boil down and can the product.
Addy, now 18, is attending Michigan State University as a third-generation Spartan. Although Addy still helps in the woods, she passed the responsibility for managing County Line Kids to 15-year-old Dori.
“It gives me experience running a business,” Dori said.
She has been involved in managing the business for a couple of years. “I’ve been helping Addy from the start (of County Line Kids),” she said.
Dori is happy to carry on the tradition that George started in 1882. “It shows how committed everyone is,” she said.
Addy is a proud syrup maker as well.
“I’m proud to be the sixth generation in my family to make maple syrup,” Addy said. “Spending springs in the woods with my family watching the woods come to life is a pretty great legacy to be a part of.”
The sugar shack remains popular as ever with Battel kids like Asher, age 12 and Elias, age 11 (Bob’s sons). It is a spot for weenie roasts and family gatherings. The menu includes marshmallows and s’mores. The boys also help maintain the woodpile.
Bob continues the tradition because he enjoys it and it’s fulfilling. “It’s something to share with my kids,” he said.
The syrup season is short. It usually starts in early March, and lasts four to six weeks, depending on the weather. When the nights freeze and the day temperatures are above freezing, the trees are tapped. The season ends when the trees start to bud.
Other Battels involved in syrup making over the generations include: Annie (George’s wife), Bessie (John’s wife/Art’s mother), Lilian (Art’s sister), Marjory (Art’s wife), John (Art’s son) and Margaret (Art’s daughter).
Over the past 139 years, the tradition has required a lot of hard work, dedication and perseverance from six generations of Battels. Nevertheless, sweet memories abound and are cherished by them all.
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Brenda Battel, Mark and Diane’s daughter, is a member of the fifth generation to grow up on the maple syrup farm alongside brother Bob. She is a writer who lives in Cass City, MI, not far from Battel’s Sugar Bush. She can be reached at brendabattel1@gmail.com.
Chris Audley, a Quebec syrup maker, became the Bacon Jug distributor for Canada in 1979. In 1980, at roughly the same time the Bacon Jug company made a shift in manufacturers away from Hillside Plastics to Hussey Plastics, Charlie Bacon and Chris Audley realized that importing American made jugs into Canada was too expensive. Instead, Charlie Bacon had a set of molds sent to Audley to begin manufacturing Bacon jugs in Quebec. Audley found a blow-molder near Montreal, Quebec and ensured jugs were printed in French and English as required for sale in Canada. Audley formalized his container business in 1982 when he formed company called T.A.P. Farm, Inc. with the T.A.P. name an acronym for Ton Acériculteur Provincal, meaning “your provincial sugarmaker.”
At its peak, the General Foods contract had Reynolds Sugar Bush shipping twenty-seven tanker loads (108,000 gallons) of syrup from Aniwa to Chicago. At that time in history, moving this volume of maple syrup out of a midwestern hub rather than New England or Quebec was a significant departure from how the maple industry had traditionally operated. Reynolds continued this contract with General Foods for 20 years until General Foods reduced the amount of maple syrup in their Log Cabin blend from 15% in 1959 to 2% by 1979. After the General Foods Corporation merged with Philip Morris in 1985 the previous contract arrangements were no longer honored and Reynolds Sugar Bush stopped supplying maple syrup to General Foods.
